During these unprecedented times, the word “essential” has become pervasive and burdensome. We are urged to leave our homes only for “essential supplies,” but what exactly does that entail? Every outing, every social interaction, brings with it the potential to spread danger or invite it into our safe havens. The casual and spontaneous way of cooking that once defined our lives seems obsolete now, as we grapple with the impact of this new reality.
However, we are not the first generation to face such upheaval and adapt our culinary habits accordingly. In her timeless book, “How to Cook a Wolf,” MFK Fisher writes, “There are very few men and women, I suspect, who cooked and marketed their way through the last war without losing forever some of the nonchalant extravagance of the 20s. They will feel, until their final days on earth, a kind of culinary caution.” Originally published in 1942, Fisher’s cookbook was reissued after the war with her later reflections. In one of my favorite passages, she chides her past self for neglecting to mention her daughters while discussing her sons.
The Pragmatic Guide to Thriving on Limited Resources
At its core, “How to Cook a Wolf” offers a straightforward solution to the pressing problem of living well on a shoestring budget. The metaphorical wolf represents the constant threat looming at our doors. When I first encountered this book, it seemed like a quaint reminder to appreciate my own fortunate circumstances rather than a practical guide. It remained on my bookshelf, separate from my well-worn Delia and dog-eared Slater cookbooks.
However, now, as I survey my pantry and calculate the longevity of my canned goods, I turn to Fisher’s words with newfound humility. Show me the way to navigate this reality, I implore. Of course, the fact that my experiences could even be compared to Fisher’s demonstrates my inherent extravagance. Her chapters include headings like “How to Be Cheerful Though Starving” and the striking “How to Stay Alive,” which outlines a recipe for a cost-effective “sludge” meant to sustain an individual for an entire week on a budget of just 50 cents.
Discovering the Artistry of Resourceful Cooking
I won’t be preparing sludge just yet. Fisher’s practicality, however, provides a comforting presence in the kitchen. “Use as many fresh ingredients as you can, always, and then rely on luck and your well-stocked pantry, while considering the inherent dignity of humanity,” she advises. Suddenly, deciding how to make the most of the last egg becomes a noble pursuit rather than an act of desperation. Fisher does not advocate for consuming offal out of financial necessity; instead, she urges us to cherish the animals we have sacrificed, savoring their flavors to the fullest.
Through “How to Cook a Wolf,” Fisher passionately argues for the importance of pleasure, even in the face of adversity. Sludge, she proclaims, can be transformed into a “delicious” dish (although less economical) by frying it in slices. She advocates for the pursuit of deliciousness whenever possible, asserting that “since we must eat to live, we might as well do it with grace and gusto.” To approach food with delight, she asserts, is not a sinful indulgence but an act of morality. It involves a thoughtful and deliberate process of selecting ingredients that nourish not only our bodies but also our souls.
Embracing Pleasure in Challenging Times
Now, more than ever, we find ourselves questioning the ethical implications of indulging in “nice things.” Is it acceptable to buy lemons during a national crisis when we could subsist on sludge alone? Fisher challenges this notion, arguing that if we have the means to eat well and intentionally choose not to, we are denying ourselves the essence of living. When we approach nourishment with skill, delicacy, and increasing enjoyment, we assert our dignity in the face of poverty, fears, and the pains of war. This, too, is essential.
In these trying times, let us find solace and inspiration in the words of MFK Fisher. Let us embrace the artistry of cooking with limited resources, savoring every morsel, and reclaiming our joy. For with each delectable bite, we reaffirm our resilience and our commitment to living fully, even in the face of adversity.
